Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem: A Guide to Cambodia’s Most Beautiful Islands

Cambodia is one of my favorite countries in the world, and I think it’s wildly overlooked. Most people heading to Southeast Asia plot a course straight for Bali, Thailand or Vietnam, and Cambodia gets skipped over or squeezed in for a quick Angkor Wat visit. 

But the country is beautiful, the people are some of the warmest I’ve met anywhere, and the islands off the southern coast are pure magic. Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem are my favorites. I’ve spent New Year’s Eve there, watched bioluminescent plankton light up the sea after dark, and made friends I still keep in touch with years later. 

Whenever I meet someone else who’s been, it feels like we share a small secret. This is a guide for anyone ready to skip the obvious and find somewhere that still feels like a lost paradise.

Both islands sit off the coast of Sihanoukville in southern Cambodia, and getting there is part of the adventure. 

From Phnom Penh, you can take a four-hour bus to Sihanoukville (Giant Ibis is the most reliable operator I’ve used), or fly into Sihanoukville International Airport directly if you’re short on time. From there, ferries run from the Serendipity or Occheuteal pier.

Koh Rong is the easier of the two to reach. The Speed Ferry Cambodia and Buva Sea boats take around 45 minutes and run several times a day. You’ll arrive at Koh Touch, the main pier on Koh Rong, and step straight onto the sand.

Koh Rong Samloem takes a little more effort, and that’s exactly what keeps it special. 

You’ll usually take a ferry from the mainland to Saracen Bay (the main hub on Samloem), and then if you’re heading to one of the more remote bays like Lazy Beach or Sunset Beach, you’ll need a second boat (a small wooden longtail) to get across the island, since there are no proper roads. 

The first time I went I thought I’d booked the wrong place because it felt so remote. Two boats in, you arrive somewhere with no WIFI, jungle pressing right up to the sand, and the feeling that you’ve stepped completely out of the world.

I’d recommend at least four to five nights split across both islands. Three nights feel rushed once you factor in travel time, and the islands have such different energies that doing only one feels like missing half the story.

My ideal split is two nights on Koh Rong (for the lively beach bars, longer beaches, and easier day trips) followed by three nights on Koh Rong Samloem (for the slower pace, the snorkeling, and the sense of being properly off-grid). 

If you can stretch it to a full week, even better—Samloem in particular is the sort of place that rewards staying still. Warning: I extended my stay twice! 

Koh Rong has more variety, from beach hostels to lovely boutique stays. Sok San Beach Resort sits on a long stretch of white sand on the quieter western side of the island, and is where I’d stay if you want comfort without losing the castaway feeling. 

The Royal Sands Koh Rong is the upmarket option: overwater-style villas, a proper pool, and the best food I’ve had on the island.

If you want the social, backpacker side of things, Koh Touch is where it all happens. It’s loud, it’s lively, and it’s where you’ll find the cheapest beach huts and the rowdiest bars. Nest Beach Club is a nice middle-ground option just outside the main strip.

Samloem is where I’d splurge a little. Saracen Bay is the main strip with calm water, soft sand, and the best concentration of mid-range resorts.

For something more secluded, head to the other side of the island. Lazy Beach is a long-running favorite with wooden bungalows, candlelit dinners, and zero phone signal, and Sunset Beach is exactly what it sounds like: small, quiet, and built around the daily ritual of watching the sun drop into the sea.

This is the thing everyone tells you to do, and they’re right. After dark, the water around both islands lights up with tiny glowing plankton when disturbed. Most resorts will run a boat trip out to a quiet bay for it. Going on a moonless night makes a huge difference.

The reefs around Koh Rong Samloem are healthier than most people expect. The Dive Shop Cambodia and Eco Sea Dive both run good day trips, and Samloem in particular is a great place to learn thanks to its calm water, clear visibility, and far fewer divers than Thailand.

There’s a path that cuts through the middle of the island from Saracen Bay to Sunset Beach. It takes around 45 minutes, the trail is sweaty and overgrown in the best way, and you’ll likely have it almost entirely to yourself.

Seven kilometers of empty white sand on the western side of Koh Rong. You can hike across the island to reach it or take a boat. It’s the kind of beach that really justifies the word ‘paradise.’

Most accommodations can arrange a private or shared boat trip around the islands, stopping at hidden coves and snorkeling spots. It’s one of my favorite ways to spend a day here.

There’s a tiny cluster of bars on Sunset Beach (Samloem) where everyone drifts down at golden hour. It’s communal, unhurried, and the type of evening you’ll keep thinking about long after you’ve gone home.

November to April is the dry season and the most reliable time to go. May to October is wetter, with rougher seas and some operators scaling back, but it’s quieter and dramatically cheaper.

Despite becoming more popular in recent years, both islands are still relatively affordable compared to Thailand or Bali.

Budget travelers can still find hostel dorms and simple beach bungalows from around $10-25 USD per night, especially on Koh Rong near Koh Touch. Mid-range beach resorts usually sit in the $40-120 range depending on season and location.

Koh Rong Samloem tends to be slightly more expensive because accommodation is smaller-scale and more remote. Resorts like Lazy Beach and Sunset Beach charge more for the experience of being completely disconnected.

Food is reasonably priced across both islands, although you’ll pay more than mainland Cambodia because everything arrives by boat. Expect simple Khmer meals for around $5-8 USD, western dishes for slightly more, and cocktails around $4-7 USD at beach bars.

One thing that catches people off guard is ferry costs and cash withdrawals. Return ferries from Sihanoukville usually cost around $25-30 USD, and ATM fees on the islands can be painfully high. Bringing enough cash from Phnom Penh or Siem Reap makes life much easier.

If you’re trying to decide between Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, the biggest difference is the atmosphere.

Koh Rong is larger, busier, and easier to travel around. It’s the better choice if you want a mix of beaches, nightlife, social hostels, and day trips. Areas like Koh Touch have beach bars and parties that feel more like the Thai islands of ten years ago, while places like Sok San and Long Set Beach are much quieter.

Koh Rong Samloem is slower, calmer, and far more off-grid. There are fewer roads, less nightlife, and more emphasis on nature, snorkeling, and disconnecting from the outside world. It’s the island I’d recommend for couples, solo travelers looking for quiet, or anyone who wants that true castaway feeling.

Personally, if I only had time for one island, I’d still choose Koh Rong Samloem. It feels wilder, less developed, and more emotionally memorable. But if you want convenience, stronger WIFI, and more variety in accommodation and restaurants, Koh Rong is probably the easier choice.