Costa Rica is one of the most beautiful countries in Central America. With its diverse flora and fauna that cover 5% of the world’s biodiversity, over 500,000 species of plants and animals, it’s surely one of the top places in the world for eco-travelers and nature enthusiasts. Nearly all of the country’s electricity is powered by renewable resources, making it extremely energy efficient and advanced in modern technology. Across the country, the lifestyle motto is “Pura Vida” meaning “pure life,” used to wish others a calm, relaxed, and balanced way of living. Across all of Costa Rica, the locals share this “pura vida” energy, but one small town in particular does it like no other…Puerto Viejo.
Puerto Viejo is situated on the southern Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica. Spanning from the town center all the way to the end of Manzanillo beach, it covers only roughly 10-15 miles to explore. The community is so tight-knit, made up of only about 1,500 people, meaning the locals of the area are essentially all related through close families and friends. For generations, residents have shared not only family ties but also the same stories, traditions, and memories that have shaped the community over time. As a visitor, this close-knit culture offers a deeper sense of connection with the local people, making it easier to experience the warmth and familiarity of the community in a way that feels distinct from other parts of Costa Rica.
What makes this town unique in comparison to the rest of the country is its distinct blend of culture with Jamaican roots, creating a deep Afro-Caribbean identity. The food. The people. The laid-back reggae music drifting throughout town. All of it feels so foreign to the familiar cities and beach towns throughout the West and Central sides, that it almost seems like you’re on an island. For visitors, this cultural richness offers a chance to experience a different side of Costa Rica, where the pace of life, local traditions, and Caribbean influence shape the rhythm of everyday life. Because of this one-of-a-kind atmosphere, the town is a hidden gem for travelers looking to experience “island time” without ever leaving the mainland.
As someone who’s lived there for 6 months, I’ve come to appreciate what makes this Caribbean town so special. From the best time to visit and where to explore, to the best places to stay and things to do, here’s everything you need to know to plan your trip.
Best Time to Visit
Just like the Caribbean, Puerto Viejo has a tropical climate similar to its opposite western coastline. However, they have different times for the sunny and rainy season, impacting the best times to travel there. Choosing when to visit depends on whether you’re looking for dry, clear skies with hot, sunny days and rough ocean waters or frequent but brief showers with calm seas and strong water visibility. Also, the best time depends on your budget, which differs based on the weather conditions.
Mid-January through April offers the best months for dry days with strong surf, perfect for those who are looking to catch some waves or bask in the sun. May through August is the low season when it’s often lush and green, but comes with frequent but short-lived rainstorms, which means the rivers and waterfalls are flowing and nature is vibrant. September through October is a small pocket of what’s known as “Caribbean summer,” where the rest of the country experiences heavy rain, yet Puerto Viejo experiences a bit of a dry time and calm waters, perfect for snorkeling the coastline. In all, accommodations are typically cheaper in the wetter months in comparison to the sunny, dry weather.
Best Beaches in Puerto Viejo
The best beaches to go to when visiting Puerto Viejo is all based on your preferences. There are not that many beaches in Puerto Viejo center, but the neighboring small villages that make up what people know as Puerto Viejo are relatively close-by, down one main road.
Playa Negra
Right before the bridge to Puerto Viejo is the black sand beach called Playa Negra. It’s literally magnetic and the black sand sparkles in the sunlight. Most visitors enjoy a quick dip and catching the sunset here.
Playa Cocles
Playa Cocles is where all the action happens. There’s an outdoor gym, people playing beach volleyball, surfing, and gathering together to just hangout under the sun. There’s also many cafes across the street and food stands along the road. It’s a popular place for social gatherings and often crowded since there is so much to do there. There is a secret path through the jungle along the coast that connects Puerto Viejo center to Playa Cocles that is perfect for a day trip to explore, but avoid this path at night for safety concerns.
Playa Chiquita
Playa Chiquita is the exact opposite of Playa Cocles. It has many natural, yet short paths through the jungle to get to the beach with small coves for swimming along the reef. This beach is the quietest and most secluded of them all.
Punta Uva
Punta Uva is known as being the most beautiful for its pristine, white sand and calm, turquoise waters with palm trees lining the coast. This is the ideal beach for families and sun-bathing in paradise, but can get pretty busy during peak sun hours.
Playa Manzanillo
Playa Manzanillo is the last beach on the coastline ending with a protected wildlife refuge. It is rugged and remote. The reef here is the best snorkeling spot along the coast during the calm season.
Best Things to Do
Cataratas Ma-Cuu (Waterfall Ma-Cuu)
Waterfall Ma-Cuu, also known as Watsi Waterfall, is a beautiful, short walk right off the main road, about 10-15 mins outside of Puerto Viejo. These cascades are perfect for a day trip in the hot sun to take a dip, cool off, relax, and picnic with friends or family. It only costs around $5 to enter this natural site, making it a budget friendly, but also entertaining adventure for anyone looking to enjoy the stunning, jungle landscape.
Trekking to Punta Mona in Manzanillo National Refuge
Punta Mona is a secluded beach at the end of the hiking trails of Manzanillo National Refuge. It’s perfect for the active, adventurous type who wants to see something more challenging than the typical, busy beaches in the villages next to Puerto Viejo. Typically, you hire a guide or book a hiking tour to help you navigate to this beautiful site, and take a boat trip on the way back to the entrance. The guide will spot out sloths, toucans, poison dart frogs, and other unique animals that are indigenous to the area. Fees vary depending on the tour you choose. It is possible to go there without a guide or tour, however, keep in mind that the trails are unmarked, GPS service is limited, and the trail conditions can be muddy and unclear during the rainy season. If you go here without guidance, just take precaution.
Cacao Trails – Cacao Museum
Cacao is a rich resource grown in many places in Costa Rica. This tour and museum guides you deeper into the history of the cacao plants, their uses, how they’re grown, and even learn how to make your own chocolate through indigenous methods. Here you will also see native plants and animals as you walk through the farm and connect with the land. The short 1-hour tour for chocolate making only costs around $20 per person, but the full 2-hour tour including everything costs around $30 per person.
Bri Bri Canoeing & Cultural Experience
As an alternative to the Cacao Museum, touring the indigenous land of the Bri Bri people gives you a deeper cultural connection to the roots of pre-colonial Costa Rica. If you have more time on your hands and can splurge on this experience, it is jam-packed with activities from canoeing into the territory, learning about the traditional spirituality of the people, making your own cacao, and enjoying a home-cooked lunch by the locals. Many companies offer similar experiences in the Bri Bri region; however, I recommend Caribe-Sur Tours.
Sunday Salsa Nights at Arrecife
If you’re looking to go out Latin dancing in Puerto Viejo, Sunday nights at Arrecife in Punta Uva are a perfect way to move, groove and socialize with other tourists and the local community. It’s free to enter and dance the night away to a short intro class then social dance afterwards. The Azucar Club of local dancers will help you learn the style if you’re new and it’s a very friendly and inviting atmosphere for all skill levels.
Where to Stay
Budget: Cabinas Montesol
Located right in the heart of Puerto Viejo, close to all the shops, restaurants, and bars is Cabinas Montesol. Keep in mind there is a huge convenience factor being next to everything, but the cheaper accommodation comes with the potential for noisier nights as it’s located in a very active part of town. Nonetheless, this stay option is perfect for those looking to stay on the budget-side, offering private rooms with shared or attached bathrooms. It’s simple, without the bells and whistles, but it’s perfect if you’re the type to be out and about exploring most of your days.
The Pachamama Nueva River side Bungalows Punta Uva offers convenient beach access to Punta Uva. This location has many different accommodation options depending on what your needs are. It’s jam packed with amenities such as kitchenette, garden and river views, BBQ facilities, and more. They even offer kayaks to access the river on the property. This stay is perfect for those who want a mid-range accommodation, not splurging but above the average basic hotel or bungalow options.
Beachfront Villa Casa Blanca with Private Pool is located at the adjacent beach town right before Puerto Viejo, along the Playa Negra shoreline. This luxury accommodation comes with sea views and private, beachfront access right outside the backyard garden. With its close location the the center of Puerto Viejo, it’s convenient for restaurants, grocery stores, and bars, but far enough for peace and seclusion. This accommodation is perfect for those who want to spend time feeling at home and enjoying a relaxed pace of their stay.
Where to Eat
In Puerto Viejo, there are many different food options to choose from, ranging from cheaper local cuisine to upscale, fine dining. I’ve listed a variety of different restaurants so you can experience the best of a little bit of everything.
Soda Rest & Bar Mari (for local food)
In my opinion, Soda Rest & Bar Mari has some of the best local food in town. It is often busy because it’s not only a perfect place for tourists to experience traditional Costa Rican cuisine, but also many locals go there…which is a sign that you know it’s authentic and delicious. Be sure to order Pollo Salsa Caribeño for a dish that is signature to the Caribbean side of Costa Rica.
El Cangrejo – Marisqueria (for seafood)
For the best seafood dishes, El Cangrejo has a lot to offer. They specialize in seafood like shrimp, lobster, octopus, snapper, ceviche, and more. For all the seafood options, you definitely won’t be disappointed.
Café Rico (for sandwiches and co-working)
Café Rico is one of those homey, open-air restaurants that doubles as a small library. They have bookshelves all around with novels in different genres and languages from across the world. Walking in here feels almost fantastical as you’re surrounded by trees and plants in the center of a garden, giving you a nice shady place to relax, enjoy some coffee (the best in town) while you get work done or prepare for your daily excursions. This is one of my favorite restaurants in Puerto Viejo and is definitely worth the hype!
De Gustibus Bakery (for breakfast & bakery items)
De Gustibus Bakery is the perfect spot to have a nice breakfast in the morning and they have many different bread and pastry options to choose from. Many people stop in to grab fresh bread and enjoy a quick meal before carrying on with their day. They have a dinner menu as well, which is predominantly Italian, but the vibes and morning/afternoon setting is a great time to enjoy this restaurant.
Bread & Chocolate (for desserts and treats)
Bread & Chocolate is known for their bread and chocolate, of course! They have really good food, but even better cookies, brownies, and cakes. This restaurant focuses on breakfast and lunch and oftentimes is a good spot to journal, read a book, or answer some emails while you enjoy your meal, as it’s off the main road and not so noisy.
Grow (for vegan)
For the vegan eaters, Grow is located oceanfront with beautiful views and delicious menu options. This restaurant is a popular spot to grab a refreshing drink or juice at sunset, as well. The falafel bowl is a best-seller and the owners always make you feel welcome to eat, hang out, socialize, and co-work.
Puerto Viejo has endless options for things to do, places to stay, dining, culture, nature, and beaches. As a person who enjoyed living a local experience, these are some of the musts you cannot miss on your next trip to the Caribbean of Costa Rica!
