South Water Caye Is Belize’s Crowd-Free Island With 117,000 Acres of Protected Reef

On Belize’s mainland, you’ll find dense rainforests and jungle landscapes that are dripping in biodiversity. You might spot a jaguar in the wild or an elusive tapir, and you’ll definitely hear howler monkeys and spot hundreds of colorful bird species fluttering through tree canopies. But travel off the mainland onto Belize’s islands, and you’ll leave the rainforest behind for mangrove forests and seagrass beds, sandy cayes, and atolls around the large Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere and second largest reef system in the world. Here, on Belize’s islands, time seems to slow down as you watch a spotted eagle ray glide through the azure water beneath you, or spy a manatee lazing through the mangroves. 

One of my favorite Belizean islands is South Water Caye, a small island home to the second largest marine preserve in Belize, where about 117,000 acres of flora are protected. Here, it’s all about R&R, and hammocks and beach chairs are abundant. South Water Caye itself is only about 12 acres in size, and days are usually spent on the water fishing, diving, snorkeling, kayaking, or island hopping via boat. Guests who visit here are more concerned with solitude and true quiet time over luxury, as there are minimal accommodations on the tiny island. But that doesn’t mean you won’t have fabulous meals and plenty to do. Here, my favorite ways to explore South Water Caye. 

At just 12 acres, it’s easy to walk around South Water Caye and get your bearings. Walk along the sand and find a spot for a swim, or see if you can spot an iguana or frigate birds flying above. There are only three small resorts on South Water Caye, so you’ll stumble upon them as you’re walking. It’s easy to find a spot in the sand to sunbathe or read a book, and you’ll find hammocks strung about that make the perfect spot for an afternoon nap. On the southern end of the island, you’ll see remnants of a ‘40s-era nun convent, which was built for the Sisters of Mercy and used as a retreat. 

Your resort can help you organize a boat trip for the day, which can include a stop through the South Water Caye Marine Reserve, where over 117,000 acres of marine ecosystems provide excellent snorkeling and diving, plus birding for brown-footed boobies, double-crested cormorants, and frigate birds. You’ll also slowly wind through the mangroves and seagrass beds to spot manatees, and learn how important these ecosystems are for marine life. 

Nearby is Carrie Bow Cay, another small island where the Carrie Bow Cay Field Station resides. Here, Smithsonian scientists conduct research on coral reef ecosystems, using the station’s scuba facilities, boats, and labs to assist in their work. The station isn’t regularly open to tourists, but you can cruise by boat and see what’s going on, and you can snorkel in the area as well and see colorful coral, fish, and sea sponges. 

The Mesoamerican Barrier Reef is a treasure trove for divers, as the biodiversity here means you’ll see a wide array of marine life. There are more than 100 species of coral found here, plus over 500 species of fish and hundreds of invertebrate species. Colorful coral rests beneath you, while small reef and nurse sharks swim along the sand underneath. Sea turtles often float by, and schools of parrotfish and angelfish are common.

Blue Marlin Beach Resort has its own full-service PADI dive shop, where you can rent gear and head out onto the ocean with the resort’s certified divemaster. There are more than two dozen dive sites within a 5-mile radius, and your journey is catered to what you’re interested in experiencing. 

Whether you want to stay ashore or head out into the depths, there’s plenty of fishing to be done off South Water Caye. Deep-sea adventures are lengthy endeavors that often result in tuna, barracuda, yellowtail snapper, or even a grouper. You can also experience fly fishing on the flats, where wahoo, tarpon, and bonefish are all found not far off the shore. Or, you can head into the mangrove reefs for bonito, mackerel, snapper, and mahi mahi. Of course, South Water Caye resorts have numerous fishing packages available at various price points. 

Blue Marlin Beach Resort offers beachfront cabanas and suites, plus its restaurant and bar, Charlie’s, for oceanside dining and cocktails. Expect fresh fish and steaks at dinner, evening snacks like fritters and ceviche as the sun goes down, made-to-order breakfasts, and Belizean specialties during the day. Each cabana has a hammock on its porch, which I found perfect accompanied by a book and a cocktail, and when I wasn’t on a boat tour or snorkeling offshore, I grabbed the complimentary snorkel gear at the resort and snorkeled right off the dock. They also offer guests kayaks and paddleboards for nearby exploration. 

There’s also Pelican Beach Resort, which offers cottages and rooms on the beach, plus a restaurant and bar with set menus featuring Mayan and Belizean dishes. Here, you can snorkel, kayak, paddleboard, and fish. At IZE Belize, cabanas in the mangroves put you right on the water, and meals include fresh seafood dishes and local specialties. Diving and fishing trips can be coordinated, and the resort also offers snorkeling and kayaking. 

From Dangriga on the mainland, take a 45-minute boat ride out to South Water Caye and your resort. These trips are usually coordinated by your resort.