A First Timer’s Guide to the British Virgin Islands

As someone who has been traveling to the Caribbean for decades, my favorite islands have a mix of great beaches, delicious local cuisine and a laid-back, out-of-the-way vibe. Fortunately, the British Virgin Islands check all of those boxes. The BVI consist of 60 stunning islands and cays, with the four main islands—Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada and Jost Van Dyke—offering vibrant nightlife, top-notch diving and snorkeling and one-of-a-kind geological wonders. Another perk? The British Virgin Islands are less visited than neighboring islands like Puerto Rico or the U.S. Virgin Islands, making them an ideal location for travelers who want an uncrowded getaway.

If you’ve been wanting to explore the British Virgin Islands but are unsure where to start, I’ve got you covered. Below is my first-timer’s guide to exploring four of the British Virgin Islands. 

Most people begin their trip to the BVI in Tortola, the largest island in the British Virgin Islands, which serves as a hub for cruise ships and yachts. To get here, you’ll want to fly into Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport, which recently introduced direct flights from Miami. Tortola has enough activities to spend your whole vacation here, or you could hop on a boat or ferry to explore other islands. 

Tortola is a haven for snorkeling, scuba diving, or just lying out on the beach. One of the top beaches here is Cane Garden Bay, which is lined with bars and restaurants. It can get busy with cruise ship passengers, so come early to snag a table at Myett’s Garden & Grill Restaurant. Smuggler’s Cove is another top choice but don’t let the bumpy road to this secluded beauty deter you. There’s not much on this beach besides Nigel’s Boom Boom Beach Bar and Grill, a rustic beach bar, but that’s part of the appeal of this relatively sheltered beach. 

If you’re into hiking, I can’t say enough good things about Hike BVI, a local tour company. During my recent visit, I booked the Pineapple Field hike, a leisurely trail walk that included a visit to a pineapple farm. If you want something a bit more adventurous, book a hike up Sage Mountain, tucked into Tortola’s lush interior. The peak (at 1,710 ft tall) offers views of the surrounding islands.

Some of the best dishes in Tortola are from local joints. D’Coal Pot is a beachfront diner specializing in saltfish fritters and curry-crusted grouper, and Tropical Fusion is a no-frills beach bar with stewed conch and pulled pork sandwiches. Rum enthusiasts (or history buffs) should set aside time for a rum tasting at the Callwood Rum Distillery, one of the oldest distilleries in the Caribbean. To learn about Tortola’s local life, stop at Jenesis Studio, a one-room art museum and garden run by artist Reuben Vanterpool and his wife, Olive, who have a wealth of stories about the BVI’s history and folklore. 

Long Bay Beach Resort is nestled on a quiet beachfront. The property features breezy villas and its 1748 Restaurant is a former 18th-century rum distillery. You can also opt for the more budget-friendly Wyndham Tortola BVI Lambert Beach Resort, which has beachfront guest rooms and a 170-foot outdoor pool. 

Virgin Gorda is a quick 30-minute ferry ride from Tortola, but you can also fly directly here from San Juan or St. Thomas, landing at Virgin Gorda Airport. Whether you decide to spend the day here or make it an overnight trip, Virgin Gorda is known for its spectacular natural beauty and upscale resorts.  

Virgin Gorda may not be the largest of the British Virgin Islands, but it has one of the most well-known features: The Baths. This collection of sky-high boulders forms grottos that fill with seawater—and tourists. The Baths tend to get busy with cruise ship and yacht visitors, so I suggest visiting later in the day to snap a picture during golden hour. Away from the rocky shoreline, check out Savannah Bay, a nearly empty powdery white beach with a gentle entry, great for swimmers of all ages.  

You also want to take advantage of Virgin Gorda’s gorgeous water views by snagging a table at the beachfront restaurant, Sugarcane Restaurant. Bath & Turtle Chez Bamboo gets top marks for its nighttime sushi menu and I like Hog Heaven for its panoramic views and tender BBQ chicken. 

If you’re looking for a beach break, Virgin Gorda offers a network of hiking trails. Gorda Peak Trail is a 1.8-mile out-and-back trail that takes you 1,370 ft above sea level. You’ll pass a few hermit crabs and lizards on your way up, and there are a few picnic tables near the top if you need a break. 

The properties on Virgin Gorda tend to skew on the higher end. The beachfront Bitter End Yacht Club is a family-owned, thatched-roof resort with dreamy overwater bungalows. Alternatively, you can check into the ultra-luxe Rosewood Little Dix Bay, first opened in 1964. The refined resort, set on 5,000 pristine beachfront acres, has hosted countless celebrities and VIPs.  

Unlike its hilly sister islands, Anegada is a flat limestone with a highest peak of only 28 feet. Anegada is the second largest of the main British Virgin Islands and to get here you can hop on an hour-long ferry from Tortola, which leaves on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. You could also hop on a local charter flight from Puerto Rico, St. Thomas, Antigua, or St. Maarten into Anegada’s small Auguste George Airport. 

Now that you’re here, grab your snorkel gear and head to the 18-mile-long Horseshoe Reef for unparalleled snorkeling. If you’re like me and you’re not a snorkeler, you’ll probably enjoy a trip to one of the island’s salt ponds, which is home to a flock of friendly flamingos. The island also attracts kiteboarders (the island hosts one of the largest kiteboard competitions in the Caribbean every March), and you can get kiteboarding lessons through Tommy Gaunt Kitesurfing.

There’s also no shortage of blissful beaches. Located on the island’s northern shore, Loblolly Beach is a deserted island dream and its crystal clear water and sugar sand beach seem photo-shopped (but trust me, they’re not). One of the best ways to see the island is on horseback. Check out Francis Family Farm, a local company that offers rides throughout the day. I would opt for the sunset ride, which takes place between 5:00 and 7:00 p.m.  

If you’re trying to quench your thirst with a rum punch, stop by the Cow Wreck Beach Restaurant, which also serves the island’s famous spiny lobster. Another great place for seafood is The Lobster Trap, which grills lobster over an open wood fire. The restaurant also serves a Key Lime Pie that rivals some of the best in Florida. 

Anegada Beach Club is a chic new property, featuring nine thatched-roof beachfront tent retreats and 16 guestrooms. If you’re looking for something a bit more low-key, Anegada Reef Hotel offers comfortable accommodations right on the beach.  

At just three square miles, Jost Van Dyke is the smallest of the major islands. There’s no airport here, but it’s just a 20-minute ferry ride from Tortola, which runs a few times a day. The tiny island packs a big punch, and if you’re here, you want to party at several of the island’s buzzy beachfront bars. 

Because of its size, Jost Van Dyke attracts a lot of day visitors sailing through the islands and it has a reputation for having some of the best food and drinks in the BVI. White Beach is the island’s popular hang-out spot. Here, boats moor in the neon-blue water and their passengers swim to shore for a drink. The top beach bar is The Soggy Dollar, where the Painkiller was invented in the 1970s. The tropical cocktail made with rum, cream of coconut, pineapple and orange juice all topped with Grenadian nutmeg, is a must. 

Jost Van Dyke’s main port of entry is Great Harbour, where you’ll find another popular watering hole, Foxy, which has been serving thirsty travelers since 1968. Two other restaurants worth mentioning are Ali Baba’s (the “BaBaQ” ribs are the main draw) and Tipsy Shark, where the fish is fresh off the boat and the vegetables are grown on site. 

Beyond the beaches and food, you can’t leave without soaking in the Bubbly Pool, a natural attraction formed by water rushing in between the boulders, creating a natural jacuzzi. The waves can be strong, but it’s worth the 20-minute walk from the waterfront restaurant, Foxy’s Taboo. 

The accommodations on Jost Van Dyke are mostly boutique hotels and inns and you can’t beat the location of White Bay Villas which overlook White Bay Beach. Another option on White Bay is The Hideout, an ultra-luxe property with only seven secluded villas boasting private plunge pools.