Florianópolis Is Brazil’s Coolest Beach City—Here’s Why Everyone Compares It to California

In the mid-1700s, a boat of Azoreans landed on a big, leafy island off Brazil’s southern coast—and with them came stories of witches, spirits, and mysterious forces that would forever mark the island’s identity. Nearly three centuries later, Florianópolis is still known as “Ilha da Magia”, or Magic Island. Although today, the nickname more often refers to its turquoise coastline, rolling green mountains, and the untouched shores still hidden among them.

Ask 10 locals how many beaches there are in Florianópolis, and you’ll get 10 different answers. The official tourism board lists more than 40, while one renowned researcher wrote a book about all 100 of them. Meanwhile, islanders have long passed down the number 42 like local folklore. The point is: beaches here are abundant.

Considering it’s quite a large island, Floripa also boasts its own laid-back city life. There’s traffic, high-rises, and a buzzy city center. But these urban features are balanced by sand dunes so tall you can sandboard down them, hikes so remote they lead to untouched beaches, and surf breaks so good you can surf them year-round.

Florianópolis has always reminded me of California’s coast in this way—the more you drive, the more you discover. If this is Brazil’s answer to California, then we’ve asked the right question. Here’s everything you need to know about traveling to the island of Florianopolis in southern Brazil.

Yes, there are at least 42 beaches in Florianópolis. Let me help you prioritize which ones to visit first.

Named after its soft, fine sand (“mole” means soft in Portuguese), Praia Mole is a favorite among the younger crowd thanks to its lively beach bars and consistent waves. It’s a go-to surf spot, and one of the most beautiful at that. On my first trip to Floripa, I stayed just across the street from this beach. I woke up early and joined the surfers—from the sand—mesmerized by the morning fog settling over the waves as they paddled out for their first. At that moment, I truly felt the island’s “magic” on my skin.

Praia da Joaquina—or “Joaca,” as locals call it—is known for its good waves and massive dunes. You’ll often see sandboarders racing down the dunes, and if you want, you can rent a board and try it yourself. On calmer days, the beach is perfect for lounging in shallow waters. It’s also one of the best places in Florianópolis to catch the sunrise, thanks to its wide, open horizon. Right at the entrance, you’ll find a couple of beachside restaurants and kiosks selling food and drinks—so you can make a full day of it without ever leaving the sand.

If Campeche is laid-back and local, Jurerê Internacional is where Florianópolis turns chique. Known as the island’s upscale beach, this is where famous DJs spin at luxury beach clubs for a Miami-meets-Brazil vibe. It’s the island’s most upscale neighborhood, family-friendly by day and glamorous by night, especially during the high season when beach clubs like P12 host parties that last into the early hours of the night.

Praia do Campeche is where locals go to unwind. It stretches long and wide, with a laid-back vibe and strong community feel. The beach is backed by a mix of modest residential streets and a growing crop of luxury buildings. There’s a newer side—sometimes called “the new Campeche”—where boutique apartments, trendy restaurants, art shops, and cafés with a more wellness-driven feel are finding a home.

Then, just offshore lies Ilha do Campeche, a smaller island that’s fit for day trips. You can only reach it by boat, and note that the number of daily visitors is limited to preserve its natural state. Once there, you’ll find Caribbean-blue waters so clear they look like a swimming pool, soft white sand, and just a single rustic seafood restaurant. My verdict is it’s worth the trip.

Lagoinha do Leste is one of the most remote beaches in Florianópolis, accessible only by boat or hiking. Whichever you choose, the result is the same: a wide stretch of wild coastline that feels very untouched. There are no roads and no buildings, as construction is banned to preserve the landscape. Even if you opt for the boat trip, it’s worth hiking up the hill on the south end of the beach. You’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of the sea and the lagoon that gives the beach its name.

An island this big has plenty to explore beyond its shorelines.

With cobblestone streets, colorful colonial homes, and deep Azorean roots, Santo Antônio de Lisboa feels like a visit to the past. The waterfront neighborhood is one of the oldest on the island, founded in 1751, and today it blends charming galleries, craft shops, and restaurants that serve the best oysters in Brazil. Don’t miss the artisan market (Feira das Alfaias) on the weekends. Then, stick around for a sunset dinner by the bay, and make sure to try those oysters.

Florianópolis boasts a variety of trails ranging from coastal walks to mountain climbs, including the previously mentioned hike to Lagoinha do Leste, which is as scenic as it gets. For something gentler, try the Morro do Lampião trail, which offers sweeping views of Lagoa da Conceição at the top. Meanwhile, Trilha do Gravatá takes hikers to a hidden beach that some say is among the island’s most beautiful.

Costa da Lagoa is a car-free enclave tucked along Lagoa da Conceição, the large lake at the heart of the island. It feels like a separate world—separated from the city not just by its inaccessibility, but by a slower pace of life. Picture hammocks on wooden porches, waterfalls hidden in the forest, and dockside restaurants serving catch-of-the-day meals. Stop at one of the many waterfront spots along the way for a long, fresh seafood lunch with a view.

No visit to Florianópolis is complete without a stroll through the Mercado Público (Public Market) in the city center. The lively indoor market is a feast for the senses, with rows of fresh seafood, local spices, and traditional bars serving cold beer and island staples like a multi-course shrimp feast.

You won’t find this on most guide lists, but it was one of my favorite experiences in Florianópolis. A friend took me to Café do Mirante, an unassuming coffee shop near Praia Mole, perched high above Lagoa da Conceição. It sits right on the edge of a lookout point, offering sweeping views of the lagoon below and one of the most peaceful sunsets on the island. Grab a coffee, a glass of wine or a slice of cake, and settle in for the show. There’s also a small crystal shop on-site, where you’ll find beautifully crafted jewelry, and spiritual souvenirs—a small way to take Floripa’s magic home with you.

In recent years, Campeche has grown into a hotspot for design-forward cafés, and plant-filled brunch spots. Go to Fairyland Café for excellent baked goods in a whimsical setting, and Om Coffee for a post-yoga latte. Bioma Açaí is perfect for smoothie bowls and organic snacks, while Café Cultura is a local favorite with strong coffee and big tables for lingering. You can also just walk around and see where you end up—odds are, the place will be serving brunch.

Where to find the best seafood, pizza, and coffee on the island. Because what else could you need on vacation?

Tucked in the peaceful Azorean village of Ribeirão da Ilha, Ostradamus, led by chef Jaime Barcellos, is the only Florianópolis restaurant that made it onto EXAME Casual’s 100 best restaurants in Brazil. It has earned a national reputation as one of Brazil’s best oyster houses. The nautical decor, pier seating, and lagoon views provide a scenic backdrop to elegant seafood dishes.

Artusi is an upscale Italian restaurant known for its refined dishes, carefully curated wine list, and polished atmosphere. It’s ideal for a special night out. Expect handmade pasta, beautiful plating, and attentive service in a sleek yet cozy setting.

Tucked into the quiet village of Ribeirão da Ilha, O Timoneiro is another top spot for oysters and traditional seafood stews. Sit outside to catch the bay breeze, and watch fishing boats go by as you enjoy dishes rooted in regional flavors.

Cumbuca is a favorite among brunch lovers for its colorful, casual vibe, and seasonal menu. Think avocado toast, smoothie bowls, and mini cheesecakes that look like little works of art—everything beautifully plated and thoughtfully prepared.

Located in a cool, up-and-coming neighborhood, LifeGuard is a casual hangout for great pizza and wine served in an unfussy setting. Come to people watch—this is where the cool people of Florianopolis hang out.

Set in a lush garden with open-air seating, Anómada is part café, part restaurant, and 100% stunning. It has its own bakery, is known for its beautifully crafted pizzas, and occasionally hosts cool events like brunch with a ceramics class.

Fly in easily: Floripa has its own airport with direct flights from all major cities in Brazil.

Rent a car: It’s the best way to explore the island at your own pace. Just note that traffic can get heavy on the main road, especially during high season—so plan ahead.

Where to stay: Base yourself in Lagoa da Conceição or Campeche for easy beach access, great cafés, a local vibe, and proximity to trails.

If it rains: Head to the Public Market in the city center to for a local meal and to get a feel for island life beyond the beach.

The best time to visit Florianópolis is between December and March, when the island is warm, sunny, and thriving with events. Unfortunately, this is also the most crowded and expensive season. For a more relaxed trip with milder temperatures and fewer tourists, consider visiting in April or May, or from September to November. Avoid June, July and August if you’re chasing the sun, as the weather can get quite cold and rainy during the winter.