This Tiny Maine Peninsula Has No Cell Service, Amazing Seafood, and One of New England’s Most Peaceful Beaches

I’m not going to call Phippsburg, Maine, a beach town, because, well, there’s nothing close to what I’d call a town. That said, there is a gorgeous, beautiful beach; historic appeal; and a whole lot of amazing seafood. If you’re looking for a Maine beach vacation where you can truly unplug, this is where you want to go.

I vacation frequently in Maine, from Bar Harbor and southward, and this is the first time I’ve taken a beach vacation to the Pine Tree State and literally had no cell service.

Sitting on the beach in New Jersey? I’ll probably make time to check my work emails. I could not do that here. I had only the smallest of bars when driving around the peninsula that is home to Phippsburg, and only reliable cell service and WiFi when at my resort.

I could fully disconnect and enjoy the ample nature and all its beauty, and that’s part of what makes this destination so special.

If you’re planning a trip to Phippsburg, Maine, too, here’s what you need to know.

There is one main beach in Phippsburg, and that is the beach at Popham Beach State Park. This is, admittedly, an absolutely breathtaking beach once you really spend a day there and get to know it.

For starters, though, you should realize a few things. You’re going to need to pay to access this beach every day. It’s $8 per day for non-resident adults. I’ve paid more elsewhere, but it’s still a cost to consider.

Then, there are crowds. Traveling to this beach in mid-August, mid-week, I did not encounter such crowds, but I was warned of them. I have a feeling that if you were to travel here on a peak holiday weekend, you’d have trouble getting in. The state park closes its parking lot when it fills, so keep that in mind.

The beach did get somewhat crowded on the nicest weather day of my week-long trip, but as someone who’s spent their fair share of time vacationing on beaches near more populous cities, I’m going to say that the “crowds” here are relatively tame.

Lifeguards are watching over the beach, but they’re spread thin. They also leave fairly early in the day, and the lifeguarding season is short (this year it ended on Aug. 30).

Otherwise, amenities are limited to restrooms, but those restrooms are well-maintained. The beach is not near any restaurants, boardwalks, etc. You are in the middle of nowhere and you’ve got a beach: love it or leave it. I suggest you love it, in part thanks to one very special feature: Fox Island.

The beach itself is sandy and smooth. There’s some overgrown brush and dunes along the edge, and driftwood has washed up ashore. Multiple islands are visible a ways offshore, the most prominent of which is Fox Island.

This island is accessible during low tide, and everyone seems to know it. Sit on your beach blanket or towel, and mid-afternoon you’ll notice a significant exodus as everyone, everyone, gets up and makes their way into the shallows and then to this island.

A tidal river forms during low tide, separating the mainland from Fox Island, which may be difficult to traverse for some. But for those who can make it across, they’re treated to an adventure of sorts. Scale the rock and make your way to the top of Fox Island, and you’ll see nothing but endless blue Atlantic.

In short, don’t expect anything fancy on this beach. Do expect to walk and explore a lot (on my most active day there, I clocked an impressive 20,000 steps). Do make sure that you pack everything you need ahead of time.

Phippsburg is a very rural part of Maine. A lot of times, when you read travel commentary that includes Phippsburg, the author bunches the destination up with nearby Bath (I’ve done the same), and for good reason: Bath is an actual town. Phippsburg, as I mentioned, is not.

That means that if you’re staying in Phippsburg, you have limited eating and drinking options, unless you want to drive into Bath, which takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Still, those limited eating and drinking options are quite good.

I would highly recommend The Lobster House. Unassuming on the outside, delightfully charming on the inside, this is a seasonal eatery that serves up delicious fare, lovingly prepared, in an atmosphere far chicer than what you’d expect when just driving by.

The service is superb, and I loved how, rather than handing you a menu, the servers bring a chalkboard to every table on an easel, letting you pick from the day’s offerings since the menu changes so often that printing a standard one wouldn’t make sense. Try the lobster stew, and by all means get the strawberry shortcake, which is the best I have ever had in my life, and I do not say that lightly.

Spinney’s Restaurant is another highly popular option, with a casual vibe overlooking the water. Post up at one of the picnic tables and take a gander out over the water (keep your eyes peeled for seals!). The fried seafood is delicious, as are the cocktails.

You can also pay a visit to Sebasco Harbor Resort (which I’ll describe further in a minute), where you’ll find multiple dining and drinking options. The resort’s Lighthouse Pizza serves up some seriously good gluten-free pizza, and the resort’s main restaurant, Ledges Pub, provides New England staples with waterside views.

If you don’t fancy spending all day every day at the beach, you have a few more options here.

First, as mentioned, you can drive into Bath and spend the day exploring the city’s history and shipbuilding heritage. Bath also has a super cute downtown perfect for strolling and shopping.

For history closer to home, you can stop by Fort Popham State Historic Site and stroll through the Civil War-era structure.

Hiking is also an option, with multiple trails in the area leading you to ocean viewpoints. The trails are clearly marked and not terribly strenuous, with the trail to Robinson’s Rock offering easy views for an equally easy amount of effort.

If you haven’t caught on thus far, realize that Phippsburg, Maine, is a very rural spot, so you’re not going to find a ton of beachside hotels or resorts here.

You will, though, find a smattering of home rentals, some basic inns, and one resort: the Sebasco Harbor Resort.

This is where I stayed, and it’s what I’d recommend, but do your due diligence before picking your room.

The property is spread out in a camp-like style, with lots of buildings right on the water. There’s a building with a restaurant, one with a gym, and one with an old-fashioned candlepin bowling alley. The accommodations are likewise spread out across an array of buildings, and some are better than others.

I had the opportunity to check out three of the accommodation options, and all were very different. The Main Lodge was historic, cozy, and overlooked Wah-Tuh Lake. The Harbor Village rooms were more modern but lacked real Maine charm. Meanwhile, the Fairwinds rooms offered marina and harbor-front views and were more in line with what I expected given the room rates charged. Book accordingly.

This is Midcoast Maine, so the best time to visit is unquestionably summer. This is not one of those beach destinations where you can visit in the early spring or late fall and expect really nice conditions and smaller crowds.

Additionally, in this part of Maine, you do want to be there at the peak, because once the crowds start leaving, the businesses start shuttering, and you’re not going to find much of anything (and the weather’s probably not going to be great, either).

While, yes, I like a winter beach as much as the next person, if you want to experience this destination at its best, go during summer.

While the main attractions of Phippsburg are by no means overcrowded, you can still find even quieter spots in the area.

Try Totman Cove or Seawall Beach if you’d like oceanfront that’s even less busy than Popham Beach (just be prepared to work to get to either).

Then, after you visit Fort Popham, which attracts its fair share of onlookers, head on to Fort Baldwin, which a lot of visitors overlook but which is just a short drive away. Built in the early 20th century, the fort originally consisted of three batteries.