The Italian Riviera’s Most Underrated Town Has Incredible Beaches — and Even Better Food

Santa Margherita Ligure is one of those beach towns where you can’t decide where to put your gaze. Every part of this Ligurian stunner is beautiful. Set between Rapallo and Portofino, it’s a perfect base for visiting both. Vespas and Fiats roll around the beachside roundabout, large yachts rest in the sprawling port, turn-of-the-century grand hotels climb the lush hills, and vacationers lounge on the pebbly central spiaggia. It’s exactly all the things the Italian Riviera is famous for.

What I love the most about Santa Margherita Ligure is its gastronomic side. The town is a Ligurian food treasure trove, offering many focaccerias, gelaterias, pasticcerias, and, of course, trattorias for tasting the regional delights. Here’s the guide to all the good things you should experience in Santa Margherita Ligure. 

Santa Margherita Ligure isn’t primarily a beach destination. While the beaches here are spectacular, you would also want to visit the coast for the Italian Riviera attractions—villas, historic hotels, castles, hiking trails, culinary, and yacht cruises. In that case, there’s no bad time to visit. Even winters here are mild, sunny, and snowless. 

The best time for a balanced visit would generally be April to June and September to October. The peak summer season is great for the warm sea and consistently sunny weather, but it’s also when Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino nearby get insanely crowded. By crowded, I mean having to literally queue to pass through the narrow streets in the famous yachting harbor. 

My advice would be to plan your visit for late spring and early autumn to get great hotel deals, enjoy the coast in nice weather and have a quality beach time (without constantly rubbing shoulders with hundreds of fellow travelers). 

When we say Santa Margherita Ligure beaches, it’s always about the larger coast. The great news is that it’s very easy to get to the magnificent neighboring beaches, such as Paraggi and San Michele di Pagana. You can simply walk or take the frequent bus. Here’s a detailed look at the best beaches in Santa Margherita Ligure. 

Santa Margherita Ligure’s main stretch is free and is located right by the busy road. There are small pebbles, so bring water shoes if you’re not used to this kind of surface. The beach is perfect for a quick dip and a tan, but it may be too busy if you seek tranquility. The access is quite shallow, and it’s popular with families. There’s also a free shower. 

Bagni, or privately owned beach clubs, rule in Spiaggia Minaglia. It’s a chic pebbly stretch on the way to Portofino. You can choose from several areas, characterized by a different umbrella color. Come early to get a good spot during high season. Expect to pay around 20 EUR for a sunbed and umbrella. There’s also an option to rent them for a half-day for 11 EUR. 

San Michele di Pagana is a tiny Ligurian village between Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo. It’s easily one of the region’s most charming beaches—a free, pebbly stretch next to the colorful houses. You can also rent a sunbed and umbrella from La Marina, a private lido on the western end of the beach. Relaxing here usually includes eating at one of the beachside restaurants and enjoying an Aperol with the harbor view. 

It’s the area’s most popular beach for dogs. Bau Bau is alongside the glamorous Covo di Nord-Est, a scenic cafe that turns into a nightclub after sunset. As a dog beach, Bau Bau is incredibly scenic—you’ve got the view of the spectacular Portofino National Park. 

Hands-down one of Italy’s most spellbinding bays, Paraggi will leave you no choice but to stand in awe. This small beach is surrounded by pristine nature. The water dazzles with emerald and turquoise hues. It’s transparent, too. As de facto Portofino’s main beach, Paraggi is also one of Europe’s most exclusive places to bathe. While there’s a tiny free section in the middle, most of its space is taken by the glitzy beach clubs. Luxury brands also love to make pop-up residencies here—the latest collabs included Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, and Vespa.  

If Paraggi feels too sophisticated, there’s always Niasca. It’s a tiny pebbly cove with incredibly clear water. You reach it by stairs from the main road. There’s a bus stop and a small parking space above (6 EUR per hour). It’s a fantastic snorkeling area, plus kayaks can be rented on the spot. 

Nothing reflects the Italian Riviera’s opulence better than a stately villa with an exotic garden. Villa Durazzo, a 17th-century aristocratic abode with lavish interiors and the Gulf of Tigullio vistas from windows and terraces, is this place in Santa Margherita Ligure. The surrounding park features lemon tree groves, tall palms, and Mediterranean vegetation. 

The first thing a visitor notices in Santa Margherita Ligure is how colorful the architecture is. Most of the facades in the historic center mesmerize you with their trompe-l’oeil, or painted, three-dimensional decorative technique. Liguria is famous for it, and wandering around the pretty town streets is a visual feast. 

You can’t visit Santa Margherita Ligure without going to Portofino. One of the world’s most beautiful harbors is just 3 miles away. While buses connect the two towns, taking a ferry is a much more scenic option. Take Line 1 of Traghetti Portofino; the round trip is 18 EUR. 

Set among the pristine nature of Portofino National Park, San Fruttuoso Abbey is another highlight of the Ligurian coast. The boat is the only way to reach this Romanesque marvel and its gorgeous beach. But something even more unique awaits underwater. Guido Galletti’s Christ of the Abyss statue graces the sea bottom in one of the coves near San Fruttuoso. You can check the exact location on Google Maps, but it’s best to dive with an organized local tour. 

Santa Margherita Ligure is a gateway to Parco Regionale di Portofino, a beautiful peninsula of hills, sea stacks, and numerous forest hiking trails. Walking from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino via Passeggiata dei Baci is the best way to admire the spectacular coast. Another ultra-scenic route is the Scala della morte (translated as the “stairs of death”). It’s a demanding, steep trek, but the views are to-die-for. 

The scent of the freshly baked focaccia is the aroma of Santa Margherita Ligure. This fluffy flatbread, generously soaked in olive oil, is the ultimate Ligurian staple. Sapori di Pane, A’ crêuza du Giò, and Pinamonti are the best focaccerias in town, where you can taste both plain focaccias and mouthwatering variations with cheese and tomatoes. 

When the focaccia is done, it’s time for gelato. Ligurians would proudly claim that their region sells the best ice cream in Italy, and they won’t be wrong. Old-school Gelateria Centrale is a top spot to get a scoop or three. Gelateria Gepi serves tasty ice cream in the center and in the port. My favorite Santa Margherita Ligure moment is sitting on the terrace of one of the pasticcerias along the Via Palestro, with coffee and a pastry, observing life go by. 

For fine dining, you can always make time to visit Cracco Portofino (1 Michelin star), offering a creative take on Ligurian dishes with superb town views. Madachí is a classy Italian restaurant in the center of Santa Margherita Ligure. Il Pescetariano is the beloved street food spot, or should we say boat food (patrons serve grilled seafood straight from the vessel in the port). For a more classic seafood ristorante, check out Beppe Achilli overlooking the harbor. 

The “grand” in the name gives it away. Miramare is the Italian Riviera everyone seeks. Opened in 1903 and featuring Liberty architecture (Italian Art Nouveau style variation), it’s a superb five-star beachfront resort. Centrally located, but discreet, it features a picture-perfect open-air pool, manicured gardens, and a spa center. 

Four-star Continental has the best location. Few hotels in Santa Margherita Ligure can offer you a private beach. Here, you follow the path through the garden to reach a lovely rocky stretch, without the hassle of lidos and public beaches. Another standout feature is the sea-facing rooms. Everything at Continental is focused on relaxation—you’ve got an outdoor panoramic pool, an indoor infinity pool, and a wellness center with a Finnish sauna and steam room. 

If going grand is not an option, Santa Margherita Ligure offers a selection of well-priced boutique hotels. Minerva is among the finest. Set in a quiet neighborhood steps from the port, it offers stylish rooms that overlook the verdant hills of Portofino Regional Park. There’s a nice orange tree grove at the entrance and a fantastic rooftop pool area, perfect for admiring the Gulf views and watching romantic sunsets.