I’ve Visited Croatia for 20 Years—This Is the Most Underrated Beach Town

Ever since I was a kid, visiting Croatia has been my favorite part of the year. Every summer, my family would go to a new beach town. I was fortunate to experience every region of the extensive Croatian Adriatic Coast. While Dubrovnik, Split, and Pula were definitely among the most beautiful destinations, there was one underrated gem that I kept coming back to as I grew older.

Located in the northern Dalmatian region, Zadar is that city. Offering a cozy Old Town, a scenic promenade, amazing food, fantastic beaches, and easy island escapes, it’s among my personal favorites in Croatia. Let me share why Zadar should be high up on your travel lists. 

I’ve been to Zadar in every season, and here’s my take on the best time to visit. Summer is when you should experience this town for the first time. Sunny days abound, the Old Town streets are full of life and the Adriatic sea is at its warmest. While it will be slightly crowded with tourists, it’s nothing like the flow of people in Dubrovnik or Split. 

Late spring is another recommendation. April and May offer moodier weather, and nature is in full bloom. It’s a perfect time to immerse yourself in the authentic city life by spending time on restaurant terraces and sampling local dishes. Hiking in gorgeous Paklenica National Park and trekking on Ugljan Island are also good activity picks for spring. September is the sweet spot in the Adriatic when you still have warm seas, but accommodation prices begin to drop. 

Skip winter if you’re visiting for the first time. December is when you have the Christmas market and festive lights. January and February are generally the coldest and wettest months. Dalmatia also experiences the powerful bura northerly wind, and it brings stormy weather and very rough seas. 

Zadar’s great advantage is its strategic location in the middle of the magnificent region (Zadar County), where you’re close to many beautiful islands, such as Vir, Pag, Dugi Otok, and Ugljan. Then, the city is a beach destination in its own right with several nice pebbly and concrete stretches. These are my recommendations for beaches in and around Zadar:

The best urban beach in Zadar, pebbly Kolovare is situated less than a mile away from the Old Town. Bring water shoes for stepping on the tiny stones. The stretch is equipped with changing rooms, toilets, and showers. There’s also a diving board alongside the saltwater pool—two icons of Zadar’s beach scene. Practice your jumps from there, plunging into the crystal-clear Adriatic waters. 

Borik is a popular pebbles-and-gravel beach in the northern outskirts of Zadar. It’s also where you find the classic Adriatic resort side of town—the stretch is lined with hotels, campgrounds, and rental apartment houses. Borik is a popular watersports hub, where you can book a jet ski, go kayaking and paddleboarding, brave the banana rides, and try diving. 

Croats know Nin for two things. The town is home to the picturesque 9th-century Church of the Holy Cross. Another attraction is the gorgeous Queen’s Beach (or Kraljičina plaža). It’s among Croatia’s longest sandy stretches, offering almost 5 miles of shallow bay. The setting can’t be more scenic: peaks of the Paklenica mountains in front, and you can bathe in calm lagoon waters. Queen’s Beach is the region’s top family beach. 

I’d give the “most photogenic” title to a tiny Jaz beach in Preko on Ugljan Island. This urban stretch combines concrete and pebbly parts. The main draw is the view of the picturesque Galevac islet with a monastery. Turquoise water, white islet rocks, and green forest create a beautiful backdrop. A regular ferry connects Preko to Zadar. 

Vir is a perfect small island, conveniently connected to the mainland by the bridge. Pedinka is a superb Adriatic beach with transparent, blue waters. The pine forest flanks the bay, offering shade and inspiration. As Vir is small, you can easily beach-hop, visiting other pristine beaches such as Lanterna, Crvenka, and Škrpinica (best for kids). 

Sakarun is the superstar beach of Zadar County. Most of the boat tours to Dugi Otok include it in their itineraries. You’ll find an azure blue bay with impossibly translucent waters. The beach is perfect for kids because the entrance is shallow, and waves are rare. While the seabed is sandy and soft, the rest of the beach is pebbly, so water shoes aren’t a bad idea. In summer, the beach gets crowded with day trippers. Lopata Beach, to the south of Sakarun, is a quieter alternative with excellent snorkeling. 

Apart from the superb Adriatic beaches, Zadar is famous for its historic quarter. The city has always been an important trading port under the Venetian influence. Its fortifications are UNESCO-protected. Large parts of Zadar’s Old Town were destroyed in World War 2 bombings, but the city was able to restore its former glory. Today, it’s among Croatia’s most vibrant seaside towns, offering a more authentic and unfiltered look at local life. 

Gracing all the postcards depicting Zadar, the Church of St. Donatus is the city’s most important symbol. Located in the very center of the Old Town, the cathedral is a fascinating example of Byzantine style in architecture. Today, it’s also Zadar’s most original concert hall (visit the classical music concert to admire its rounded interior). 

Queen Jelena Madijevka Park is my favorite green area in Zadar. In the 19th century, the city decided to turn the mighty Venetian bastions into a lush space, filled with Mediterranean plants. The park is alongside the iconic Land Gate, the photogenic Foša harbor, and the Five Wells Square. Combine your walk with a tour along the seaside Zadar City Walls.

The Adriatic coast’s most poetic sight is found on Zadar’s gorgeous promenade. As you walk, you hear an ethereal sound that reminds you of a mythical siren song. That’s the unique Sea Organ, a special structure with holes that turns the waves into a melodic sound of the sea. I love sitting on the edge of the promenade and just listening to this calming sound. When the dusk falls, everyone gathers at the Greeting to the Sun installation nearby. It’s a circular monument made of three hundred solar panels that emit light at sunset. 

Zadar is a former Roman colony. It has always fascinated me how the centuries-old ruins stand here alongside Venetian and modern buildings. The centerpiece of the Roman Zadar is the Forum, a collection of ancient columns next to the Church of St. Donatus. The Archaeological Museum of Zadar is your go-to spot for seeing the artifacts from Roman times. My personal favorite is the Roman pillar at the Five Wells Square. There’s something special in enjoying your coffee and dessert next to such an old structure. 

Gigantic white cliffs, bluest of waters and saltwater lakes: Telašćica Nature Park is a sublime Mediterranean destination. If you have more time to spend in Zadar, booking a boat trip there is a must. A typical excursion includes cruising along the gargantuan limestone walls, swimming in a pristine cove, and enjoying grilled seafood. 

Zadar cuisine is delicious. It’s the best example of Croatian Adriatic food with several original local approaches. Zadar County is blessed with the sea, olive groves, plains and mountains, meaning that you’re in for a very diverse (and fresh) selection of ingredients. 

First come the appetizers. Pršut, or cured pork meat, is the king of the Zadar table. It’s the saltier analogue of Italian prosciutto. The town of Nin is famous for the šokol variety of pršut. Another highlight is the cheese from Pag Island (Paški sir). The marinated anchovies are also a locally loved delicacy. 

As for the mains, you have to try the flavorful peka, a traditional baked dish prepared in a bell-shaped vessel. Octopus peka is especially mouthwatering, prepared with potatoes and vegetables. Zadar is also a great place to try Dalmatian seafood specialties like cooked mussels, grilled shrimps, and squid in buzara sauce. Ugljan Island is known for its Atlantic bluefin tuna production, so travel there for an excellent tuna steak. 

The grand dame of the Zadar hotels, Hyatt Regency offers the most luxurious way to experience Zadar. The five-star lodging is set in a former Maraska drinks factory from 1911. You’ve got stylish, sea-facing rooms, an outdoor pool, a Lavanda Spa with sauna and a whirlpool, and an Adriatic food restaurant.  

If it’s a beach holiday you’re after, Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik is the best choice for accommodation. It’s the ultimate family-friendly resort, located next to the popular Borik beach in the north of Zadar. The hotel offers a heated indoor pool, a large outdoor pool with slides, a 2500-square-meter spa, and a dedicated animation program for kids. 

Graciously blending the centuries-old mansion with contemporary design, Dunatovi Dvori Heritage Hotel is your best pick for an island retreat. It’s the uber-stylish boutique hotel with an outdoor pool and gorgeous terrace in Preko, on Ugljan island.