I Lived in the Pacific Northwest for 10+ Years—This Is the Most Charming Coastal Town in Oregon

Astoria is the oldest city in Oregon, as the first American settlement west of the Rockies. Located at the mouth of the Columbia River where it meets the Pacific Ocean, it not only offers incredible scenic beauty but a rich history that can be seen in its many magnificent Queen Anne- and Victorian-style homes and buildings. Living in the Pacific Northwest for well over a decade, I was lucky to have resided just a short drive away for several years and also visited frequently while traveling up and down the coast between Washington State and Northern California.

While you might see destinations like Cannon Beach and Newport on lists of the most charming coastal towns in Oregon, only Astoria has such an abundance of spectacular historic architecture. Combined with its water and mountain surroundings, it’s truly breathtaking. Of course, you’ll have to come and see for yourself. 

A drive up to the 125-foot-high Astoria Column on Coxcomb Hill, the highest point in town, brings a panoramic view of Astoria, the Columbia River, the Astoria–Megler Bridge, the Pacific Ocean, Saddle Mountain, and the snow-capped peaks of the Cascade Range volcanoes: Mount St. Helens, Mount Rainier, and Mount Hood. It takes 164 steps to climb to the top, but the reward is more than worth the effort. In the gift shop below, you’ll find small balsa wood gliders for sale that can be launched from here, where they’ll soar through the sky on the coastal winds.

Housed in the old Clatsop County Jail, featured in the cult hit “The Goonies” during the famous opening jailbreak, the Oregon Film Museum offers the chance to step right inside the same cell from the movie and check out all sorts of film-related memorabilia. It not only displays memorabilia and props from “The Goonies,” but also many others that were shot in Oregon, like “Kindergarten Cop,” “Stand By Me,” “Free Willy,” “Short Circuit,” “Animal House, and “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.”

The Flavel House Museum is right across the street from the Oregon Film Museum, housed in one of the most well-preserved examples of Queen Anne architecture in the Northwest. It was also where Mike’s father worked as a curator in “The Goonies.” Dating back to 1884, it was built for Captain George Flavel, who worked as a Columbia River bar pilot and made his fortune through real estate. It’s like taking a step back in time to the 19th century, portraying the elegance and the history of the Flavel family. But even if you don’t step inside, it’s worth visiting for the exterior if you’re looking for an Instagrammable spot.

While Astoria is a coastal town, the closest beach along the Pacific Ocean is about a 15-minute drive west in Fort Stevens State Park. It has a classic long sandy beach for combing, building sandcastles, kite-flying, and picnicking. There are miles of scenic trails winding through coastal forests, wetlands, and dunes, while birdwatchers often spot herons and bald eagles. As a former military installation used from the Civil War through WWII, there’s plenty for history enthusiasts too, like the Peter Iredale shipwreck that ran ashore in 1906, a military museum, and a nearly century-old underground gun battery.

If you’re a fan of “The Goonies,” you know the Astoria docks as the “Goon Docks,” the area along the waterfront where countless sea lions gather, especially around the East Mooring Basin and Pier 39. While you can see them year-round, an even higher concentration will be lounging around here in the spring and summer, providing more fantastic photo ops.

Astoria’s riverfront can be explored on foot, two wheels, or by trolley. The riverfront trolley is not only a great way to get from point A to point B, but it’s a slice of Astoria’s history, complete with tour narration for learning more about its past. The “Old 300” is a 1913 heritage streetcar that rolls along former freight railroad tracks for three miles, allowing riders to hop on and off all day long. 

If you want to do more active exploring, follow the Astoria Riverwalk. It spans over six miles, but it can be accessed at any point, with many attractions throughout, from the Astoria-Megler Bridge (North America’s longest continuous three-span through-truss bridge) to the Columbia River Maritime Museum, interpretive signs with information about the area’s history, the “Goon Docks,” restaurants, and breweries.

For decades now, Goonies fans across the globe have come to see the house where the chase for One-Eyed Willy’s Treasure all began. It wasn’t constructed as part of a film set; it’s an actual residence built in 1896, but the owner is fine with visitors parking a few blocks away in one of the public lots and walking up to see it and capture photos.

One of the best hikes in the area will bring you from the replica of the 1805-1806 winter encampment at Fort Clatsop to the Pacific Ocean. It’s quite the trek at 6.5 miles each way, but if you’re up for a bigger adventure, it’s hard to beat. You’ll meander through the ancestral lands of the Clatsop Indians, who aided the Corps during their early 19th-century winter stay at the Pacific, before reaching Sunset Beach. The sandy stretch boasts expansive views from Cape Disappointment to the north and Ecola State Park to the south.

The Green Door is one of those rare eateries where you can pick up delicious yet healthy food, with gluten-free, sugar-free, keto-friendly, vegetarian, and vegan dishes. It’s a small cafe with indoor and outdoor seating, or you can grab items to go, perfect for a picnic, with everything from soup and sandwiches to street tacos. 

For decades, Bowpicker has been a cult-favorite for fish ‘n chips. Set within a repurposed boat, there’s almost always a line at the walk-up window, and you won’t find any seating, but it’s worth the wait. On a nice day, enjoy your beer-battered meal with a beautiful view along the waterfront. 

This family-owned and operated craft brewery has been around for nearly 20 years, occupying nearly an entire city block. It’s not just a homegrown brewery—it has a taproom, a pizzeria, and a pub, so you can complement a wood-fired pizza, burger, poutine, or another pub grub favorite with a pale ale or an IPA.

For an extensive menu of fresher than fresh seafood, head to South Bay Wild. The small, family-owned and operated restaurant also has its own commercial fishing vessel dedicated to harvesting only the highest quality sustainably caught seafood. It’s best known for Dungeness crab, but the clam chowder and fish tacos are fantastic too.

Widely regarded as the best place to stay in Astoria, this luxury hotel sits within a former fish cannery, built 600 feet into the Columbia River on over 100-year-old pilings to showcase the water and the iconic Astoria-Megler Bridge. Every room has a private balcony, providing an unparalleled view for watching the boats and the region’s abundant wildlife come and go. Loaner bikes are available for exploring downtown, with the Finnish sauna a perfect place to warm up afterward. 

A trendy Art Deco hotel in the heart of downtown, just two blocks from the river, Norblad is a budget-friendly option with minimalist rooms. It has some unique features, like record players and iPads instead of TVs, as well as being pet-friendly with treats, beds, bowls, and a relief area provided.

 Lloyd Hotel Astoria Bayfront offers a picturesque location at the western end of the Astoria Riverwalk near the bridge with a trolley stop adjacent. It’s a good choice for those looking for views of the water and an excellent range of facilities, including an indoor pool, sauna, and fitness studio hosting yoga classes.

Overlooking the Columbia River, this elegant B&B combines historic charms with modern comforts. Set within a beautiful restored Victorian building in a central location just a block from the riverfront trolley, it includes period furnishings and waterfront views. 

Astoria is notoriously rainy and generally cool, with high temperatures often in the 50s or 60s, with summer and early fall typically bringing the best weather for outdoor fun. No matter when you visit, you should pack your rain gear. July and August are the warmest months, although it doesn’t get too hot with highs in the 60s or 70s. I like visiting around late September to mid-October, when the sun often seems to make an appearance, highlighting the beautiful autumn foliage, while the summer crowds have thinned. 

That said, spring has its big pluses too, typically seeing a mix of rainy and sunny days. The Astoria Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival typically occurs in late April and is well worth planning a trip around, while Goonies fans shouldn’t miss “Goonies Weekend,” held in early June. Winter is ideal for storm watching at the beach, as well as being the least expensive and least crowded time to visit Astoria.