The Official Guide to Yelapa, Mexico: Everything I Wish I’d Known Before My Extended Stay

The first time I ventured to Yelapa, Mexico was in April of 2023 for my birthday. I went thinking it would be a quick weekend getaway. But I fell so in love with the place that I came back a few weeks later and stayed for a few months (and even adopted a scruffy beach dog who’d completely stolen my heart). That’s the thing about Yelapa though, it has this magical way of making you forget about the outside world entirely.

This tiny, car-free village tucked into the jungle mountains of Jalisco is only accessible by boat, which means the moment you step off that water taxi, you’re officially off the grid. No ATMs, no chain restaurants, no Uber—just pure, unfiltered Mexico at its most enchanting.

Getting to Yelapa, Mexico is just part of the fun. The most convenient option is to take the water taxi from Puerto Vallarta’s Los Muertos Pier. The colectivo boats from Boca are cheaper (around 50 pesos), run more frequently and you’ll be riding with locals heading home from work rather than drunk tourists. Plus, the 30-minute ride along the coast is absolutely stunning. Either way, the boats run roughly every 30 minutes to an hour during the day, but they can get crowded, so grab a seat quickly. You can buy tickets right at the pier for about 500 pesos round trip.

The boat ride itself is an adventure. You’ll whizz past dramatic cliffs, pass hidden beaches and maybe spot dolphins if you’re lucky. I always sit on the left side of the boat for the best views of the coastline. Just be prepared to get a little wet—these aren’t luxury yachts and the captains love to hit the waves at full speed, so it can be a bit bumpy.

The jungle hike to Yelapa’s waterfall is non-negotiable. It’s about 20 minutes uphill through lush tropical forest and the payoff is a gorgeous cascade where you can swim in pools. Go early in the morning before the day-trippers arrive and you might even have it all to yourself.

The trail starts behind the main village and is well-marked, though it can be muddy during rainy season. You’ll cross several small streams and climb over some rocks, but it’s totally doable for anyone with basic fitness. The waterfall has multiple pools at different levels—the upper pools are usually less crowded and perfect for a peaceful swim.

Pro tip: Wear good shoes. The path can be slippery, especially after rain. And bring a waterproof bag for your phone because you’ll want to take photos. I also recommend bringing snacks and water for a longer stay. There’s something magical about having lunch by a waterfall in the middle of the jungle.

Raicilla is Jalisco’s lesser-known cousin to tequila and mezcal and it deserves more of a moment. The Jungle Garden makes some of the best raicilla cocktails in town and their sunset views are unbeatable. I spent countless evenings there sipping raicilla and watching the sky turn every shade of pink and orange.

Yelapa attracts a certain type of traveler—the kind who’s into yoga, meditation and general good vibes. There are several wellness centers offering everything from temazcal ceremonies to cacao rituals. I did a cacao ceremony at one of the retreats and it was one of the most profound experiences on my trip.

Pura Vida Wellness Center offers yoga classes, massage treatments and various healing ceremonies. They also have a saltwater pool overlooking the ocean and serve incredible healthy food like smoothie bowls and fresh juices. I went for a dip after a long day of hiking and felt like a completely new person.

Yelapa beach is the main beach where the water taxis dock. Lining the beach are plenty of restaurants and bars and beach loungers to rent. 

Playa Isabel is a gorgeous secluded stretch about 20 minutes walk south of the main beach. The path is a bit tricky to find—look for a small trail near the cemetery—but you’ll be rewarded with pristine sand and usually complete solitude.

Majahuitas Beach is another hidden gem that’s only accessible by boat. Many water taxi drivers will take you there for an extra fee, or you can rent a kayak and paddle there yourself. I spent an entire day there reading, swimming and basically feeling like I’d discovered my own private island.

Verana is the Instagram-famous spot perched on the cliffs with those jaw-dropping infinity pools and tree-house vibes. It’s expensive but worth it for a special occasion (like that birthday trip that started my obsession). The casitas are built into the hillside with open-air bathrooms and views that’ll make you question why you ever lived anywhere else. Expect to pay $400+ per night, but the experience is truly once-in-a-lifetime.

Casa Isabel is my personal favorite middle-ground option. It’s a small boutique hotel with gorgeous rooms. Each room has a private terrace and the staff will arrange everything from massage services to fishing trips. I stayed here during my extended visit and the owners were so kind.

For the adventurous souls, there are several vacation rental casitas scattered throughout the village. Many don’t advertise online—you’ll find them by asking around once you arrive or seeing signs throughout the village. These range from basic jungle cabins to stunning clifftop villas.

The food scene in Yelapa is refreshingly simple. Most restaurants serve fresh-caught fish, handmade tortillas and whatever vegetables are in season. This isn’t fusion cuisine or Instagram-worthy plating—it’s honest, delicious Mexican cooking at its finest.

Café Bahia makes the best breakfast in town—their huevos rancheros and fresh fruit bowls are legendary. The café opens early (around 7 AM) and serves strong coffee that’ll wake you up faster than the roosters. Their banana pancakes are also incredible, made with bananas grown right behind the restaurant.

Tacos Y Mas! was such a good spot to grab a quick margarita and several delicious and authentic street tacos. I highly recommend it. 

For dinner, Domingo’s has romantic beachfront tables where you can eat with your toes in the sand. Their coconut shrimp is incredible and the margaritas are strong enough to make you forget you have a flight home.

Insider tip: Ask what fish was caught that morning and order it. The red snapper and mahi-mahi are usually fantastic, and they’ll prepare it however you want. And don’t miss the tamales! Several women in town make them fresh daily, just look out for the ladies walking around with large pots calling “Tamales calientes!”

This cannot be overstated: bring cash and lots of it. There are no ATMs in Yelapa and only a few places in the entire village accept cards. I learned this the hard way. Mexican pesos are preferred, but US dollars work at most places. I always brought more than I thought I’d need because once you’re there, you’re stuck if you run out.

Beyond the usual beach vacation items, there are a few Yelapa-specific things you’ll want to bring. A good flashlight or headlamp is essential—the jungle paths can be tricky to navigate after dark. Mosquito repellent is crucial, especially during rainy season (dengue fever is no joke). Water shoes or sturdy sandals are perfect for the rocky beach areas and stream crossings.

Don’t forget a waterproof bag for your electronics. Between boat rides, waterfall swimming and occasional tropical downpours, your stuff will get wet. 

Cell service in Yelapa is spotty at best. Some hotels and restaurants offer WiFi, but don’t expect to be streaming Netflix or taking video calls. This is actually part of the charm. Yelapa forces you to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with the real one.

If you absolutely need reliable internet, head to Café Bahia or Hotel Lagunita—they usually have the best connections. But honestly, try to embrace the digital detox if you’re able to.

Yelapa is generally safe. The biggest dangers are probably sunburn, dehydration and falling in love with a beach dog. The local community looks out for each other. I never felt unsafe walking around alone. Just have your wits about you and don’t walk alone at night or flash large amounts of money.

That said, the usual tropical precautions apply: drink bottled water, use sunscreen and bug spray religiously and be careful with street food if you have a sensitive stomach. The local clinic can handle minor issues, but serious medical emergencies would require a boat ride back to Puerto Vallarta.

December through April is perfect weather—sunny, dry and not too hot. This is also peak season, so book accommodations well in advance.

May through November is rainy season, which means lush green jungle, fewer crowds and afternoon thunderstorms that are actually quite beautiful. I loved the dramatic weather, but pack accordingly.

Yelapa is small and you can walk from one end to the other pretty easily. There are no cars, just a few ATVs and mules for carrying supplies. The main “street” is actually a river that flows through town, which you’ll cross several times on foot bridges (Yelapa literally means where the river meets the ocean).

Wear comfortable walking shoes because you’ll be doing a lot of walking on uneven stone paths. And don’t be surprised if you have to dodge the occasional pig or chicken—they’re just part of the charm.

You should know Yelapa has a thriving population of beach dogs and they’re all looking for love (and food). These aren’t typically aggressive strays; they’re most often friendly, well-fed (by the community) and incredibly smart. They’ve mastered the art of looking pathetic during dinner time and know exactly which restaurants are most likely to share scraps.

There’s also an informal network of visitors who help transport dogs to mainland Mexico for adoption. If you’re feeling generous and want to make a real difference, reach out to Dana Hutson at the Yelapa Animal Project! (This is how I got my stray back to the states).

Yelapa, Mexico isn’t for everyone. If you need reliable Wi-Fi, gourmet restaurants, or entertainment beyond conversation with locals and sunsets, you might get restless. But if you’re looking for a place to truly disconnect, to remember what it feels like to live in the moment, to fall asleep to the sound of crashing waves instead of traffic, then Yelapa will work its magic on you too. Paradise exists, and it’s only a water taxi ride away.