Welcome to Lāna‘i, the Hawaiian Island With No Traffic Lights (and No Crowds)

Just to the west of Maui, Lāna‘i is a remote Hawaiian paradise where beach lovers come to unplug and delight in the art of doing absolutely nothing. Here, you’re not going to find throngs of people on beaches or buzzing nightlife. On Lāna‘i, it’s all about relaxation or, for those looking to be active, getting outside for a hike or off-road experience.

Owned by Oracle billionaire Larry Ellison, Lāna‘i is the sixth-largest of the main Hawaiian islands, with a population of about 3,400 residents. Lāna‘i City is the only town on the island, and while you’ll find restaurants, galleries, and shops, you’re not going to find a single traffic light, which shows you just how small the island really is.

From the island’s small but mighty hotel selection to eateries and outdoor adventures, here’s how to explore the Pineapple Island. 

Set above Hulope’e Bay, the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i offers ultimate luxury while maintaining a laid-back vibe. Most rooms and suites have a wall of windows that open onto a private lanai, where ocean views accompany your morning coffee. Golfers flock here to play the Jack Nicklaus-designed Manele Golf Course, which was built along the staggering cliffs for Pacific views. An adults-only pool and a family-friendly pool surrounded by lush greenery give you a tranquil place to unwind during the day, or you can stroll down to the beach at Hulope’e Bay to sunbathe with tourists and locals alike. 

The on-site Lanai Observatory is a must see, as it allows guests a close-up view of the moon and stars like you’ve never seen before. Tours are available from cultural advisors, who share how indigenous Hawaiians used the stars for navigation as they sailed across the ocean. For more education on Hawaiian culture, you can also find Lāna‘i cultural advisors each day in the lobby, where you can try your hand at playing the ukulele, learn to make lei, or take a historical tour through town. There’s no shortage of activities here, as tennis, fishing, snorkeling, Jeep tours, a full-service spa, and more are all on the schedule. 

Getting here has been made easier as well, as Lāna‘i Air is now offering flights from Honolulu to Lāna‘i for Four Seasons guests, with pricing built into your stay. Upon arrival in Lāna‘i, a private vehicle whisks you away to the resort, making transportation a breeze. It’s easy to see why this Four Seasons is one of the best beach resorts in Hawaii.

Away from the beach, Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort, offers a completely different stay than its Four Seasons sister property to the south. Here, the adults-only resort is centered around wellness. You can still book a round of golf, sunset sail, stargazing parties, and Jeep tours just like you can at Four Seasons Resort Lanai, but here, you’ll also find experiences centered around learning about your body and how to care for it properly. Work with a registered dietician to learn about your metabolic health, discover how efficient your cardiovascular system is working, take private yoga sessions, and dive deeper into your overall health with a Sensei Guide. 

Take some time for the spa, which incorporates traditional massages and wraps, but also aquatic bodywork massages, where your practitioner guides you through stretches in the water during a massage, plus Thai floor massages, and thermal body mapping. Spa treatments come with 30 minutes of hale time, where you can unwind in your own spa hale (Hawaiian for home) with infrared saunas, soaking pools, and indoor and outdoor showers. 

Just like the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, Lāna‘i Air offers flights between Honolulu and Lāna‘i, offering you an easier, more luxurious flight option straight to Lāna‘i. 

In Lāna‘i City, Hotel Lāna‘i is a boutique property with just 10 rooms set in a plantation-style building. Rooms are modern, with warm wooden walls and a touch of Hawaiian style. If you’re looking to spend lots of time in Lāna‘i City and away from the beach, this is a great option, as you’re right across from Dole Park, shopping, and dining. 

Inside the old community center and ‘50s-era bowling alley, Lanai Bowl is bringing not only bowling back to Lāna‘i, but incredible bowling alley food as well. Chef Christian Page, who also runs Lanai City Grill down the street, created a menu based around Hawaiian favorites such as  macaroni salad, chicken katsu, and teriyaki beef, plus added New York-style pizzas topped with dollops of ricotta and a drizzle of hot honey, plus tasty dishes like slow-simmered oxtail, juicy burgers, a teri-beef cheesesteak with ginger-scallion mayo, and a full retro-inspired soda fountain. Four bowling lanes add to the fun, and the retro-inspired decor adds a touch of nostalgia to this new, popular spot. 

At Hotel Lanai, Lanai City Grill offers a mix of casual and upscale fare, with rotating specials, taco Tuesday nights, wine dinners, and New American creations mixed with Hawaiian favorites. The burgers here are a huge hit, and the pineapple Parker rolls with honey-miso butter are a must. Local plates include a Lāna‘i axis deer ragu pasta and a grilled daily catch with local bok choy.

You can’t miss this white plantation-style building with blue trim right along Dole Park, as there’s always people on the patio and a crowd for breakfast and lunch. Simple, blue-checkered tablecloths adorn the tables inside, and the menu has a heavy Hawaiian influence. Think chicken katsu and loco moco (hamburger patties, eggs, and brown gravy), mahi mahi done numerous ways, and teriyaki chicken. This is a popular breakfast spot too, where you’ll find a traditional American menu and fresh pastries. 

In Lāna‘i City, Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine specializes in seafood and sushi, with weekly specials made from local ingredients. Find a rotating menu with items such as ahi poke nachos, Korean chicken katsu, lechon kawali (a Filipino dish of fried pork belly), teriyaki beef, grilled catch of the day, and more. 

A stroll through Richard’s Market is essential on Lāna‘i. Also in Lāna‘i City, this grocery store is where you’ll find typical Hawaiian snacks: spam musubi, fresh poke, Kalua pig, and lomi salmon. Fresh Hawaiian produce is also available for those wanting to try only-in-Hawaii treats.

Fueling Lāna‘i City’s caffeine fiends is Coffee Works, where you can buy a bag of coffee to take home or grab an iced latte, chai tea, smoothie, and other typical coffeehouse finds. Breakfast and lunch items are also available. Think acai bowls, bagels with cream cheese, chicken caesar wraps, and Belgian waffles. 

You’re in luck: Even if you’re not a guest at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, you can request reservations and enjoy the resort’s delicious options and alfresco views. Book NOBU for a taste of celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s world-renowned Japanese cuisine. The crispy mushroom salad, sashimi tacos, and lava-rock beef are all winners. For lunch with a view, Manele Golf Course’s Views restaurant is stunning. The prawn BLT on pita bread, makai salad with lilikoi dressing, and braised short ribs are all easy, casual choices that still deliver on flavor. 

Learn about Lāna‘i’s history from its formation about 1.5 million years ago to the island’s kings and invaders, ranching operations, the pineapple plantation era, and modern times at the Lanai Culture and Heritage Center. 

What began as an effort to sterilize Lāna‘i’s street cats in 2004 has grown into a full rescue mission, where hundreds of cats are now housed safely away from Lāna‘i’s vulnerable and endangered ground-nesting birds, which were at one point in time, being eradicated quickly by the island’s feral cats. Visit the Lanai Cat Sanctuary to hang out with feline friends, or adopt a cat to help rescue efforts. 

Along the southern coastline, Hulopo’e Bay sits beneath the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, offering locals and tourists both a relaxed spot for swimming and snorkeling. You’ll sometimes spot surfers here as well depending on the swell, but the beach is mainly known as a laid-back option for lounging. Head towards the eastern side of the beach for tide pools carved from volcanic rocks. Here, you can spot sea stars, hermit crabs, and small marine creatures inhabiting the pools. Restrooms and picnic facilities are available, but there is no lifeguard on duty. 

Near Hulopo’e Bay sits Pu’upehe, a large islet jutting 80 feet out of the water that creates an iconic Lāna‘i photo (especially at sunrise and sunset). Legend says that a young Hawaiian warrior hid his love in a cave below, which became flooded in a storm. When he returned to the cave, she’d drowned. The warrior then hiked to the top of Pu’upehe to bury her, then jumped into the surf below. You can’t access the islet itself, but a short hike from Hulopo’e Bay takes you out onto the island’s edge just in front of the islet.  

Dryland forests full of native Hawaiian flora once covered vast swaths of Maui, Lāna‘i, Molokai, and Kaho’olawe. Kānepu’u Preserve was created to protect and restore the last major remnants of these dryland forests, where two native Hawaiian birds, the pueo (short-eared owl) and kōlea (Pacific golden-plover) are found. The preserve is also home to native Hawaiian plant species, including the endangered iliahi (sandalwood) and Hawaiian gardenia (nā‘ū). There’s a self-guided interpretive trail and signage to guide you along, and the trail is open from sunrise to sunset. You’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to access the preserve. 

Jeep tours often take adventurers to Keahiakawelo, a large rock garden with a lunar landscape and sweeping views below and across the Pacific to Molokai and Oahu. The introduction of cattle and gradual erosion caused this dusty landscape, where spires, rock towers, and eroded formations come to life at dusk. Four-wheel drive vehicles or a mountain bike are a must to get here. 

The Four Seasons Resort Lanai offers sunset cruises from Manele Harbor. Cruise Lāna‘i’s rocky coastline while taking in the view of the island as it glows in orange and pink around sunset. Cocktails and pupus (appetizers) are served, and during whale season (December through March), you might spot some humpbacks in the waves before they make their way back to Alaska for summer.