I Lived in the Pacific Northwest for a Decade—This Is the Most Charming Coastal Town in Washington State

A charming Victorian seaport town at the northeast tip of the Olympic Peninsula, from the moment you step onto downtown Water Street, you’re likely to fall head over heels with Port Townsend. Of course, that might come even sooner—when you round the bend above, and it all comes into view, surrounded by water and towering mountains, from Mount Baker and the Olympics to Mount Rainier. 

Founded in 1851, it was envisioned as the “City of Dreams.” While its grand Victorian buildings were erected and are now well-preserved, the transcontinental railroad that investors counted on never arrived. Today, Port Townsend offers a different kind of dream to the many who are lucky enough to live there. An alternative, artsy community, you’ll immediately notice its creative vibe, with residents a mix of preservationists, artists, and free-spirit types, drawn to the outdoor beauty and small-town charms. 

Having explored nearly every corner of Washington and all 50 states, I feel confident in saying Port Townsend is not only the most charming coastal town in Washington State, but the entire country. But it’s not just me: it’s been recognized by many travel publications like Budget Travel, which named it 2023’s “Coolest Small Town.”

If you’ve never been, there are a few things you need to know to make the most of your visit. 

Downtown Port Townsend is a hub of arts and culture, with Water Street the heart of it all. This is the main street, and it’s lined with many beautiful Victorian buildings that now house unique boutiques, quirky shops, art galleries, coffee shops, and eateries. Talented buskers often provide entertainment, from the usual singers and guitarists to more eclectic acts. Steampunk performers, pianists who play right on the sidewalk, and even a bagpiper, often accompanied by his pack of chihuahuas and a shield maiden, are just a few of the more memorable.

The Jefferson Museum of Art and History is Jefferson County’s historical and art museum, set within the 1892 City Hall building. It displays all sorts of interesting exhibits focused on the early settlers and native inhabitants in the area, including a few juicy tales about the Ladies of the Night who once lived here. In the basement, you’ll find the old city jail with a cell where author Jack London is said to have spent the night in 1897. Historical accounts say he was so drunk that a prostitute decided to bring him there for his own safety.

Fort Worden State Park is only two miles from downtown, providing the perfect place to explore history and nature. There are miles of trails for hiking and biking, winding through forests, meadows, beaches, and historic batteries. The sandy beaches are ideal for combing, particularly a stretch of North Beach that can be accessed by hiking along the shore known as “Glass Beach,” known for its abundant sea glass. 

There are also areas for picnicking, a lighthouse, and a museum to explore. The Commanding Officer’s Quarters is filled with Victorian-era furnishings and can be toured to get a glimpse of the period as well as the life of an officer and his family. 

You’ll find the Port Townsend Science Center on the pier. Before stepping inside, listen to the sounds of marine life through the hydrophone listening station. If you’re lucky, you might even hear the chatter of orcas. Inside, there’s a small aquarium with local species like fish and invertebrates, along with one of only six fully articulated orca skeletons, telling the story of an orca named Hope.

While it’s possible to see whales, porpoises, seals, and sea lions from shore, your best bet is to join a boat tour with Puget Sound Express from the Point Hudson Marina. In the spring, watch for gray whales that migrate through the area. Humpbacks are often seen in the summer, while orcas are most commonly spotted between late April and October. 

You can get out on Port Townsend Bay in a kayak, with rentals available at the downtown Northwest Maritime Center. While you paddle, enjoy the view of town and the surrounding mountains from the perspective of the water while watching for sea otters, seals, porpoises, and whales.  

One of the highlights downtown is the magnificently restored Rose Theatre. It originally opened in 1907 as a vaudeville playhouse but evolved through silent films and talkies. While it had a stint as a shoe store, in 1992, it was restored and became the beloved movie house that it is today, showcasing art films and blockbusters.

Set atop a bluff in the Uptown district overlooking Admiralty Inlet, Chetzemoka is a hidden gem mostly visited by locals. In late spring and summer, it will be bursting with colorful flowers, providing the perfect place for a picnic with all the facilities you need, from tables and firepits to BBQ grills. Plus you can follow a short trail down to a beach below. Visit on a weekend in August? Enjoy Shakespeare in the Park in the outdoor theater.

Running from April through the third Saturday in December, the Port Townsend Farmer’s Market has received many accolades, from the best in the Northwest to ranking among the country’s best small town farmer’s markets. It’s a lively community hub on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. in the Uptown district, offering the usual fresh produce from local farms along with works created by local and regional crafters, chef demos, and live music. 

While there is plenty to do right in Port Townsend, Olympic National Park is only about an hour’s drive away. It’s larger than the state of Rhode Island at over 1,440 square miles and home to over four dozen soaring mountain peaks, rainforest, waterfalls, hot springs, and a wild coastline with driftwood-strewn beaches. 

Hurricane Ridge is the most easily accessible mountain area and the closest section to Port Townsend. There are lush meadows filled with wildflowers in late spring and summer, while a variety of wildlife like mountain goats, marmots, and black-tailed deer can all be spotted. In the winter, this is where the locals go for family-friendly skiing.

Port Townsend has a thriving food scene, as well as being a place where it’s easy to find organic, gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options.

One of the best places to fuel up for sightseeing or any outdoor activity, Better Living Through Coffee sits along the downtown waterfront near the ferry terminal. It not only offers a beautiful view but some of the best organic coffee around, along with baked goods and various light bites. 

My favorite place for all-day breakfast with a focus on comfort foods, the Blue Moose Café is hidden in the Port Townsend Boat Yard. 

Located in Uptown, head here for fresh pastries, artisan breads, cookies, and other baked goods, along with local cheeses.

Enjoy breakfast, lunch, or high tea at Cafe Tenby. Located downtown, it’s renowned for its British-style high tea with an extensive menu of teas and authentic British items like scones with clotted cream. Plus, live music is often hosted on the back patio.

This hidden gem in the Uptown district serves New American fare made with local or regional organic ingredients like smoked salmon, cioppino with Marrowstone Island mussels, and soups with locally-baked baguettes.

A local favorite, Finistère offers indoor and outdoor seating with a menu of New American dishes that can be paired with a well-curated list of wines by the glass.

Sample the local brews (ales on tap plus a wide range of local and regional bottled beers) at Port Townsend Brewing. It has an outdoor patio along the waterfront as well as an indoor tasting room where live music is hosted in the summer. There’s no food, but you can have it delivered or bring your own.

You can’t visit Port Townsend without trying the ice cream at Elevated. A local institution, it serves homemade ice cream, handmade chocolate and candy. 

Despite living in Port Townsend for many years, I’ve stayed at the Palace Hotel more than a few times for its historic ambiance and reports of paranormal activity. Built in 1889, it’s perfectly located right downtown, hosting antique-filled rooms, some with scenic views of Water Street and the bay beyond. It also has an interesting history that includes serving as a brothel. It’s said that some of the ladies of the evening never left, although I’ve never experienced anything out of the ordinary while staying there.

Located in the Uptown district, linked to the historic downtown by sets of steep stairs, Ravenscroft offers B&B accommodation with the Baker and Bay rooms showcasing views of the bay, Mount Rainier, and Mount Baker.

An intimate B&B, the Commanders Beach House offers a romantic setting near the marina with views of the Point Wilson Lighthouse, Whidbey Island, and Mount Baker. There are just four rooms, one with a view of the boatyard and the others of the beach, close enough that you can let the waves lull you to sleep each night.

May through September is the liveliest time to visit Port Townsend, with the best weather and a variety of festivals. The Rhody (Rhododendron) Festival kicks off the event season in mid-May, featuring a pet parade, kids’ parade, the Grand Parade, famous bed races, and the Rhody Run. Of course, this is also the busiest time to visit, so you’ll want to book accommodation and activities well ahead. It’s worth visiting anytime with lots of fun community events in every season.

You can drive to Port Townsend from Seattle via the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, but it’s generally quicker to take the ferry to Bainbridge Island and drive from there.