You’ll have to take a ferry with the ride longer than most to visit the Isle of Colonsay, one of the more distant Hebridean Islands. But the two-hour and 20-minute journey from Oban is worth the trip for those seeking tranquil seclusion and gleaming white sand framed by brilliant turquoise water.
Skip the tourist crowds and traffic congestion on the narrow roads of Skye, the island nearly everyone seems to have on their itinerary, and enjoy a more authentic taste of remote Hebridean life. Colonsay is only about 8 miles long and 3 miles wide, with a population of around 130, but it’s not only renowned for its beaches but also for its community, rich in traditions and culture.
The Beaches
Some of the most beautiful beaches can be found here, most notably, Kiloran Bay. Despite its remarkable beauty, with soft, pale golden sand and sparkling blue-green waters, there’s a good chance you’ll have this crescent-shaped stretch all to yourself. Even when visitors are here, it’s large enough to find your own secluded spot.
A breathtaking view can be found from any one of the high points around the bay, but the most memorable thing to do is walk across the silky sands at the edge of the brisk water. The more adventurous can swim or head to the small sandy cove at the north end of the bay to explore the two lower caves, with evidence of human occupation dating back 8,000 years.
Alternatives to Kiloran include the wide expanse of white sands at Ardskenish Bay and remote Balnard Bay, accessed via a 40-minute walk from Balnahard Farm, backed by dunes while overlooking calm, turquoise water. Machrins Bay is an ideal vantage point for watching a sunset, where Mother Nature often paints the sky in shades of peach and dusty rose.
Culture, History & Traditions
The community’s impressive island-inspired craftsmanship can be seen in the handful of shops and galleries, including yarns produced from sheep at Balnahard Farm, ceramics, handmade jewelry, woodwork, and more. Immersing yourself in the highly acclaimed traditional music scene at the local pubs is a must, with spontaneous sessions frequent.
During the summer, locals gather weekly at the village hall, for ceilidh, a traditional dance designed for everyone to join in the fun. If you time your visit right, enjoy some of the country’s top folk artists at the annual Ceol Cholasa music festival over four days in mid-September.
History enthusiasts can check out the ancient Buaile Riabhach stone circle on the hill behind Colonsay Hotel. It’s also possible to walk across the tidal strand (crossable only two hours on either side of low tide) to the neighboring Isle of Oronsay to see the well-preserved 14th-century Oronsay Priory. It houses a collection of carved medieval gravestones, crosses, and effigies, one of the most significant in Scotland.
Where to Stay
Colonsay has a backpacker lodge, B&Bs, apartment and cottage rentals, but the Colonsay Hotel is the central island hub, complete with a bar, restaurant, and nine cozy rooms. Built in 1750, the family-owned Georgian inn also offers a slice of history, having retained its charming exterior for centuries, including the sloping slate roofs. Perched on a hillside, it also boasts views of the harbor and the neighboring island of Jura.
